The Food and Drug Administration’s plan to consider banning formaldehyde in hair-straightening products, tentatively scheduled for April, is facing criticism as too little, too late. Scientists and advocates argue the proposal inadequately addresses health risks disproportionately affecting Black women, who are the primary users of chemical hair straighteners.
Recent studies have linked frequent use of hair relaxers to increased risks of breast, ovarian and uterine cancers. While formaldehyde has been classified as a carcinogen since 2011, experts say other hazardous chemicals in straighteners likely contribute to these hormone-driven cancers.
“The fact that formaldehyde is still allowed in hair care products is mind-blowing to me,” said Linda Birnbaum, former director of the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences.
Critics argue the FDA’s slow response reflects its limited authority over cosmetics and broader regulatory failures. The agency must consider chemical ingredients “innocent until proven guilty,” according to Lynn Goldman, a former EPA official.
Studies show 84% to 95% of Black women in the U.S. have used relaxers. Scientists suggest this frequent, lifelong use may explain why hormone-related cancers kill more Black women than white women per capita.
“We have to do a better job regulating ingredients that people are exposed to, particularly some of our most vulnerable in this country,” said Tamarra James-Todd, a Harvard epidemiologist.
The FDA did not provide a timeline for finalizing any potential ban. Some states and manufacturers have already taken steps to limit formaldehyde in personal care products.
See “FDA’s Plan to Ban Hair Relaxer Chemical Called Too Little, Too Late” (February 8, 2024)
